FSC Certification

Forest Stewardship Council Certifications

There are two types of FSC certifications that support responsible use of worldwide forests:

Forest Management Certification

FSC sponsors a Forest Management Certification based on internationally accepted FSC principles and criteria. This program is a voluntary process for verifying responsible forest practices in all type of forests and plantations.

This certification level requires an inspection of the operation that handles forest management. This inspection is conducted by an independent FSC accredited certification body. If the operation complies with FSC requirements that support environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial, and economically viable forest management practices.

The certification standards are developed at the national or regional level, not at the common international level. In the case where there are no FSC accredited standards in place, FSC accrediting organizations can use accredited generic standards.

Included in these standards are requirements for compliance with national legislation, local use rights and indigenous people's rights, ecological functions, biodiversity, economic viability, and adequate operations management.

Costs for certification vary depending on the size and complexity of the forest area. For additional information on the Forest Stewardship Council or their certification programs, check out the FSC-related websites:

-- http://www.fsc.org/

-- http://www.fscus.org/

Chain of Custody Certification

While Forest Management Certification is for the woodland manager, Chain of Custody Certification is the certification level path taken by other users in the production chain, from the forest to the consumer. This can include all successive stages of processing, transformation, manufacturing and distribution.

The main objective of Chain of Custody Certification is to ensure that FSC-certified materials are tracked throughout the supply chain between, primarily in production processes within operations.

These companies are audited by an FSC-qualified organization, primarily checking that the operation has a control system in place to track sources and uses of certified materials. This control system is intended to prevent FSC-certified or reclaimed material from getting mixed with material illegally harvested material from forests.

FSC Certifications demonstrate compliance with policies like the EU Ecolabel specifications and the U.S. Green Building Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) rating system.

For additional information on the Forest Stewardship Council or their certification programs, check out the FSC-related websites:
-- http://www.fsc.org/
-- http://www.fscus.org/

Only FSC certified operations are allowed to label products with the FSC trademarks. Here is a summary of the different levels:

For more information on SmartWood, a FSC forest certifying organization, check out their website at: http://www.smartwood.org/

For more information on the regional FSC certifying organization in the Adirondack Park in upstate New York, check out their website at: http://www.rcpa.org/

Northern White Cedar

Overview

Thuja occidentalis
Northern White Cedar is one of nature’s most unusual woods. Because most cedar grows near swampy water basins, it has a slow rate of decay and a natural resiliency to rot and disease. White Cedar has a pleasant mild fragrance that acts as a mild insect repellent.


Ecology
Northern White Cedar is an evergreen coniferous tree, considered to be part of the cypress family. It is native to the northeastern United States and Appalachian Mountains, as well as in southeastern Canada.

Unlike the closely related Western Red Cedar, White Cedar is only a small tree, 30-60 feet in height with small trunk diameter (1-2 feet). Its bark is red-brown and furrowed in vertical strips that easily peel away. It has unusual scale-like leaves and slender cones.

White Cedar grows naturally in wet forests, especially proliferate in swamps where other larger and faster-growing trees cannot compete successfully. It also occurs on other sites with reduced tree competition such as cliffs and slopes.

It is not considered an endangered species, but it is under threat in some areas with large deer populations. Deer find the soft evergreen foliage attractive for food and strip it quickly. The White Cedar is used in landscaping, log homes and for outdoor furniture, where its natural oils deter pests and mold.

Unique and Unusual Features

Checking
As it continues to dry and cure, Northern White Cedar normally will check or develop the cracks that help create the wood’s natural character. These are normal and natural processes in cedar and in no way affect the strength or durability of the furniture.

Cedar Oils
While it dries, Northern White Cedar’s natural wood oils may develop a dust on the surface of the wood, which is the crystallization of the wood oils. This dust can be easily removed with a dry cloth.

Warping
Occasionally, soft woods like cedar will warp slightly during transportation. Usually the warp goes away once the furniture has been assembled.


Comparisons with Other Wood

White Cedar vs. White/Yellow Pine
White Cedar is blessed with natural preservatives, that make it one of the most decay/rot resistant and insect tolerant woods available. Checking/cracks will typically not penetrate the heartwood. Pine is not naturally resistant to rot or insects and require preservative treatments (arsenic is a common additive to pine boards to provide resistance). Pine cracks are common and more often penetrate the heartwoodl.

A University of Maine study looked at durability of wood species and found that untreated White Cedar had high natural durability (even with ground contact) with serviceability to 50-60 years. Untreated Pine, on the other hand, has a serviceable range of 3-7 years with ground contact.

Cedar typically has about 1/3 less moisture content when green than Pine. Cedar can be naturally air-dried in a short time, allowing the wood to acclimate itself to the new moisture level without harming its molecular structure. Pine, which tends to retain more moisture, requires additional kiln drying.

More Info and Links

For more info on the Cedar Species:

www.forestry.about.com/library/tree/blntwh.htm


For more info on Natural Cedar Furniture:

http://www.oldadirondack.com/

Finishing Cedar Furniture

Finished or Not? -- How to Stain Furniture
Natural Northern White Cedar is a fresh pale tan or light gold color.turns to a gray color over time. Water based or oil stains will delay the weathering process and latex paint coats evenly and lets the wood breathe.

Types of Finishes

Stains: Water-based stains will delay the weathering process, since they pnetrate the wood while allowing the wood to breathe. Outdoor products will usually require re-staining every year or so to maintain the desired look. While stains have traditionally allowed you to see grain through the tint, newer opaque stains provide a more solid color to furniture.

Paints: Paints provide a layer coat of color on furniture. When exposed to the elements for an extended period, paints can chip.

Polyurethanes: If using furniture where it will be exposed to rain and sun, you may desire to put a polyurethane finish on the furniture after it has been stained.


Preparation for Finishing
The correct preparation helps the stain to adhere, given the wood’s porousness and reveal the wood’s grain. The product coverage depends on the wood’s porosity, grade and texture.

o Read the label and instructions on the stain can label for specific information.

o Use a drop cloth to protect any surfaces you many be working on. Work in a spacious, ventilated area.

o When staining dowel ends, note that the ends are rougher and are usually darker in color. The rougher surfaces will wear down the sponge brushes sooner.

o Separate parts of the furniture from the whole. For instance: remove any drawers from a dresser.

o Sand the Furniture. Most unfinished pieces need additional fine sanding before staining. If the furniture has been in use or outside for a period of time before staining, it is best to lightly sand all surfaces before staining using a Sand Sponge. A Sand Sponge may be used on an unfinished product to smooth holes and remove stains or markings. ALWAYS SAND WITH THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD. Remove any loose wood fibers or dust.

o Clean the Furniture. Use a Tack Cloth to remove excess wood dust.

o Check the Stain Color. Use a piece of similar wood or find an "out of the way" spot on the furniture to test the stain to ensure the wood is absorbing it to attain the desired color. Let the stained sample dry and then inspect before continuing with the staining. Color cards and brochures can give you good approximations of color, but cannot duplicate exactly how a product will look on your particular product’s wood surface - only you can through experimentation.

o Try to stain the furniture when temperatures range from 50° to 85° F. Humidity should be below 80%. Avoid staining outside during the hours of most intense sunlight. Direct sun coupled with a hot surface can cause stain to dry unevenly, affecting the finished look. If applying a water-base coating to wood that is hot to the touch, dampen with water to cool.

o Do not apply stain to a product that has been recently outside in the rain. Water-soaked wood should dry out for 24 hours, so that it can absorb a stain properly. For best results, the product should also not be in rain for 24-48 hours after staining.

o Do not over-stain. Wood pores are like a sponge. They can only absorb so much stain before becoming saturated, which may result in excess stain pooling on the wood surface and can weaken the product.

o Remove any stain drips or excess before they dry to make clean-up easier. Wet product can be cleaned up with fresh water in most cases. If product has dried, you may need to lightly sand the area and re-apply some stain as necessary.

STAINING STEPS

1. Stir your paint/stain. Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the "mud" so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up. To maintain an even color, stir the stain periodically during application.

2. Use a Foam Brush, stain the lower portions of the furniture first, working your way through the sides to the top. Stain can be applied in any direction, usually cross-grain first, but ending with the grain.

3. Stain one surface at a time. Stain the corners and uneven areas first, using a “full” brush to get full penetration. Then, spread the rest on the flat areas.

4. Let the wood dry (initial absorption takes about 15 minutes with a light coat).

5. Depending on the desired look, a second coat can be used to give a richer color depth and enhance the longevity of the stain. Use a Sanding Sponge to lightly touch up any rougher areas where you desire more stain to absorb before applying a second coat if desired. Remember to use a Wipe Cloth to remove any dust before applying a second coat of stain.

Brush tips:

o Dampen the brush before use. Stain will be less likely to dry on the brush.

o Don't overload a brush with stain. The application will be smoother and less wasteful.

o Stain with the brush at 45-degree angle to maximize the bristle's surface area.

o For a better finish, stain from the area just painted towards the unpainted area. This is called "wet to dry."

o Dip the Foam Brush one-third of the way into the stain; any deeper will waste stain. Lightly tap the side of the brush on the inside of the can to remove excess stain.

o If you need to stop for an hour or so, wrap the brush in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and put it in, the refrigerator so it does not dry out.

o Before cleaning, remove remaining stain by stroking the brush back and forth on newspaper. Then, rinse out remaining stain from the brush.

o As you stain each area, you may want to use a Wipe Cloth to wipe with the grain to carefully remove excess stain, then move to another area. With White Cedar which absorbs quickly, you will not likely need to heavily wipe the stained areas.

ENJOY!

Hand Crafted Cedar Furniture

How Hand Crafted Cedar Furniture is Made
Walk through the steps followed to hand craft natural rustic cedar furniture -- from lumbering to assembly:

Introduction
There are a lot of steps to making a piece of cedar furniture for you to enjoy. Let's walk through what it takes:

Foresting and Lumbering
Northern White Cedar is not that easy to come by. Its most common location is in swampy areas. This makes it hard to log, so it's no surprise that the most common logging times for White Cedar is in the frozen winter and the dry summer.
White Cedar can also be found on slopes where other species cannot thrive. It grows to only about 12-18" diameter; much larger than that tends to rot the heart (especially in wetter areas).
Cedar is generally not even considered worthy enough to be dumped into pulp for paper production. In many eyes, it is a nuisance at most or too small to deal with. It is not "farmed" like other woods, so there is no major re-forestation efforts required like for other timberlands. While not actually on the endangered list, White Cedar is in danger of depleted sources.

But, Northern White Cedar is worth the extra time and effort to find it. It is one of nature's most enduring woods. Becasue most of it grows near swampy water basins, it has a slow rate of decay and a natural resiliency to rot and disease.
White Cedar is a soft wood that takes on a natural, unique character as it dries and cures. Its natural aroma and oils acta as a mild insect repellent.

Cut and Dry and Cut
Once cedar has been harvested and selected, it is dimensioned at the sawmill. Round, tree trunks are cut in large semi-open mills to generate dimensioned lumber for sale, typically ending up in flat or square stock.

After, the wood is loaded and shipped to the manufacturing area. All wood is then cut and dried. The order of these operations depends on what the wood will be used for:

Squares/Round Stock: Square pieces are first fed through a doweling machine to make a consistent log pole to be used as a post in manufacture. Then, the round stock is "stickered" (using separators between row piles to provide space between stacked levels for air to circulate during the drying process)and set out in the open to dry for 2-3 weeks.

Flat Stock: Flat stock is stickered right away so that the stack can be loaded into a kiln for 1-2 weeks to dry. When it emerges from the kiln, it is then planed to its final dimension before manufacturing.

All wood is dried prior to being used to make products. Sawyers use a cut list to chop the different length parts that are needed to maximize yield of the wood supply.

Production

SHAPING/ROUTERING
Most products required either shaping or routering to form a part or to finish edges. This is usually done my a mechanical shaper or by a CNC (Computerized Numerical Control) machine.

SANDING
Typically, most products, unless rustic, will have most surfaces and edges sanded.

DRILLING
Almost every product requires some sort of drilling, usually pre-drilled holes for fasteners (screws, nails, bolts, etc.).

ASSEMBLY
With the high cost of transportation these days, most products are sent to the customer sub-assembled or as kits for the customer to assemble himself. Manufacturers will typically create large sub-assemblies, which means they partially build the different main parts used in the products.

FINISHING
Natural products, of course, are "finished" without any extra finishing steps. When exposed to the elements, White Cedar will gradually turn a warm grey. Sometimes, these woods are stained to add color or to preserve the "just milled" appearance before sending out to a customer.